Schiaparelli-chic 1937

"Originality, plus simplicity of line is the secret of chic."

Schiaparelli wearing her own design: a shoe-hat (black wool, winter 1937/38)

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was an Italian fashion designer. She ruled the fashion world of the 1920's and 30's along with Coco Chanel. Like Chanel she retired soon after WW2. One of her most famous deaigns is Wallis Simpson's lobster dress which she created in collaboration with Salvador dali. She contributed to fashion articles from time to time, in several magazines/newspapers during the 30's. In 1937 she gave her 7 rules on how to dress chic.

Wallis Simpson wearing Schiaparelli's famous Lobster dress

schiaparelli's seven rules 
On how to dress chic:
1. simple, beautiful lines and good (quality) materials
2. spotlessly clean clothes
3. be tidy, take good care of every garment
4. in color matching garments
5. dress to suit the occasion
6. keep a small stock of matching clothes
7. spend to buy the very best quality of accessories (shoes, hats, bags) you can afford

1934 spring inspiration: the third and fourth models from Schiaparelli: blue wool suit and white cotton blouse with linen lace ending on the jabot, black wool coat with silver fox scarf

The key is to invest in small stock, but matching clothes, made of quality materials. Nowadays it is easy to forget the importance of quality, when we can buy new, cheap clothing for every season. Looking at myself I prefer to invest in just one or two better pieces (on sale) than filling my wardrobe with tons of cheap and 'fashionable' clothes each season. On the downside, I must say, I looooove colors, and little details so often forget to buy clothes that I can wear in different combinations.
I don't follow the newest fashion trends, and prefer to wear my own, authentic mix of vintage inspired and modern day garments, and I certainly invest in good quality accessories. How about you?


Schiaparelli blouses from 1938: pink Vyella fabric with brown leather buttons, crochet hat, Vyella jacket blouse with chinese collar and leather buttons.

did you know that...
...Vyella fabric was a twill weave blend of 55% merino's wool and 45% cotton in the early 20th century? Later they modified the fabric mix in 80% cotton and 20% wool. In the early years, the fabric’s unique selling point was its combination of lightness and fashion, whilst providing warmth and durability.

1939 beautiful felt hats, left a cocoa-brown forward jutting beret from Schiaparelli


Source newspaper image: AWW through trove

Sewing plans - coordinates

   
Simplicity 3688 and 4044

Love or hate coordinates?
First of all the most beautiful, shooting music to wake up with... at least to whom who love classic music. Others might find this rather irritating because of the repeating theme of the Canto Ostinato from Simenon ten Holt. (the title means 'stubborn song')

Anyway, there is a new Sewaholic pattern!
I wasn't testing this time as I did with the Cambie dress, Tasia asked specially for pear-shaped ladies for pattern testing and I'm not one. Though, my weakest point (hello body image!) are my thighs. Trousers often stuck halfway up, even if they would fit in the waist. and how about the gaping backs? Pffff..... Now, the new pattern, the Thurlow trousers look like have enough room in the leg-area: "It’s the first trouser pattern designed for curvy hips, fuller thighs and a narrow waist." There is also a built-in extension in the back which you could adjust. Once we are settled in our new home I'm planning to make a suit, skirt and trousers to have a complete coordinated set, like the Vogue Wardrobe series.

To make my wardrobe-variation, I need to a fitted jacket. The jackets of the patterns above are not fittd enough for my taste. They are early 40's patterns, a bit boxy and long, while towards the end of the 40's the jackets got more fitted and a little shorter too. For the skirt and the suit I'm going to use the out of print Vintage Vogue pattern 2885 which I've recently ordered. The jacket is really nicely fitted and the skirt is an A-line, even if it looks on the pattern envelop like a fitted, straight one. For the trousers I'm planning to use the Sewaholic Thurlow pattern, which has wide legs, a slightly lower waist than the traditional 40's pants. I think it would go nicely with the 40's Vogue jacket:





Played with Photoshop a little to show how the fitted suit would look on my not-so-elongated torso. Just to show how different the proportions are. Still looks good...

Style Macaron dress for winter

Even if it has short sleeves, the Macaron dress is versatile for the autumn/winter months. I've made mine with a corduroy fabric which has more body. Here is my 'winterized' version:

Boots (Airstep), shrug (Esprit - this is basically a tube with an opening in the middle) and a shawl:


 

I'm taking a few days off from blogging - London is waiting!