Jumper plans spring 2014

I have already made plans for knitting a few new jumpers!
Moving a bit backwards in time, to the late 30's I choose the 3 patterns above. The 3 jumpers above have their individual challenges to me and all of them need to be resized a bit as well. Of course, I'm not planning to frog and re-knit them like I did on the Victory, so there are no lace stitches this time! Nice, solid knits with geometric patterns, mainly constructed with basic knit/purl stitches for an easy calculation of the gauge.

1. valerie
This pattern appeared in an 1940's AWW. Though it is a 1940 model we know that the AWW used mostly imported patterns which were released overseas earlier. I love the tabs and the all-over pattern which make this jumper special and very 30's. Actually, I already started knitting this one in 2013, but sewing up the pieces and the finishing took more than a month. In te meantime the Knit for Victory challenge started and I just didn't got round to share the finished jumper. Mine has 3/4 sleeves and is knit in a bright, electric blue color. I ordered the yarn (drops baby merino as always) when it was on sale. A short series of the knitting process will follow shortly.

• my challenge: to achieve the right fit and calculate 3/4 sleeves

2. trellis jumper
This is a Lincoln Mills booklet pattern, which is another free pattern from the internet. There is no exact dating possible, but looking at the hairstyle, the small shoulder pads and the button detail it must be released somewhere in the late 30's or very early 40's (though in the early 40's the shoulders 'grew' quickly bigger, like my Philippa's)
Again, the pattern looks rather simple, but very decorative, containing a small cable pattern in the yoke and sleeves. Most vintage patterns include some amount of increase along the torso to achieve a slight V-shape. This pattern instructs to increase in the last row of ribbing to the definitive amount of stitches at once. That way the visual lines of the vertical cables won't be disturbed.
I'm going to use the same drops baby merino yarn in bright blue-ish red, which I also used in my Victory jumper (yarn ordered when it was on sale)

• my challenge: cable pattern

3. easy stitches jumper
Guess what, another free pattern from the net! The main pattern of the bodice of this one looks similar to the trellis jumper, but the spacing between the vertical lines is filled up with moss-stitch here. Also, the jumper has a rounded yoke which is knitted in the round for the front and the back, including the top of the sleeves. raglan style sleeves. This will be a new challenge to knit! Interesting detail: the pattern instructs to cast on more stitches for the front than for the back. The color is going to be medium or light gray drops yarn which I yet have to order. I might try another quality of yarn to avoid too much calculations in the round yoke area. The drops cotton merino yarn is slightly heavier than the baby merino I use and is available in a pretty light-green color which I like very much!

• my challenge: to knit the yoke in round with the right fit

Jumper styles and shapes from the 30's to the 60's

It is interesting to look at how jumper styles changed through the decades. Before starting to knit you really need to look at the pictures of the finished items and ask yourself the quetion: Will this look good on me? We all have different body shapes and let's be honest, not every garment accentuates the best parts of it. The models, even from 100 years ago seem to have the same, slender body shapes with tiny waists which makes every item look wonderful on them. Frustrating!

When it comes to making vintage inspired garments I think you need to know which era produced the most flattering patterns for your body type.
As you might know by now, I prefer the 40's. This is why:

• The accentuated shoulders are perfect to disguise the lack of shape in the waist. 
• The 30's could also be a good choice because of a wide variety of embellishments, for the same reason. 

I also know which parts to adjust:

• Those era's are well-known for the high necklines. I lower them a bit because of my round face. 
• Since I am high waisted I know it is more flattering to add extra width above the waistline to create a slightly blousy shape.
• Of course, I lengthen the tops too, because a very short jumper with a high waist is not a good combination...

The 60's are not my fashion era, simply because of the lack of shaping in the garments. I can imagine those garments would look fabulous on a thin person with small boobs, but with my swayback and broad shoulders they'd just look shapeless sacks on me. The 50's have a question mark in my book, because the hourglass shape which I simply don't have...

Which fashion era do you prefer and which one looks best on you?
Sloping shoulders or elevated ones, dolman sleeves or puff sleeves, fitted tops or relaxed ones?

Vintage inspired shoes from...Clarks

very 30's: lace up shoes, shaped heels, slingback sandals, suede

very 40's: heavier heels, pumps, suede, platform soles, ankle straps, wedges, fabric & canvas

Continuing the vintage inspired shoes series I've recently found a few gems in the collection of Clarks. you find the other posts under the label 'shoes' To be honest, never looked at the Clarks shoes until now because my mom who has 'difficult feet' loves them. The good thing is, the fit must be good, but on the downside she tends to like really shapeless shoes lately. It took me some time to talk her into buying a few neat and feminine shoes with low heels instead of the Birkenstock-type sandals she likes to wear.
The shoes above have typical late 30's and 40's shapes, they would all look equally pretty worn with a skirt or trousers. Now, that we finally (almost) sold our old house I'm aloud to buy new shoes. Above there are quite a few from the 2013 autumn/winter collection which are amazing but sadly, already sold out here. How about the Alma Kendra? To die for!
From now on I really need to watch the Clarks collections for new, vintage inspired items for myself...

As a little extra, below a 1946 article on tips for buying the right shoes for your feet:

Schiaparelli-chic 1937

"Originality, plus simplicity of line is the secret of chic."

Schiaparelli wearing her own design: a shoe-hat (black wool, winter 1937/38)

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was an Italian fashion designer. She ruled the fashion world of the 1920's and 30's along with Coco Chanel. Like Chanel she retired soon after WW2. One of her most famous deaigns is Wallis Simpson's lobster dress which she created in collaboration with Salvador dali. She contributed to fashion articles from time to time, in several magazines/newspapers during the 30's. In 1937 she gave her 7 rules on how to dress chic.

Wallis Simpson wearing Schiaparelli's famous Lobster dress

schiaparelli's seven rules 
On how to dress chic:
1. simple, beautiful lines and good (quality) materials
2. spotlessly clean clothes
3. be tidy, take good care of every garment
4. in color matching garments
5. dress to suit the occasion
6. keep a small stock of matching clothes
7. spend to buy the very best quality of accessories (shoes, hats, bags) you can afford

1934 spring inspiration: the third and fourth models from Schiaparelli: blue wool suit and white cotton blouse with linen lace ending on the jabot, black wool coat with silver fox scarf

The key is to invest in small stock, but matching clothes, made of quality materials. Nowadays it is easy to forget the importance of quality, when we can buy new, cheap clothing for every season. Looking at myself I prefer to invest in just one or two better pieces (on sale) than filling my wardrobe with tons of cheap and 'fashionable' clothes each season. On the downside, I must say, I looooove colors, and little details so often forget to buy clothes that I can wear in different combinations.
I don't follow the newest fashion trends, and prefer to wear my own, authentic mix of vintage inspired and modern day garments, and I certainly invest in good quality accessories. How about you?


Schiaparelli blouses from 1938: pink Vyella fabric with brown leather buttons, crochet hat, Vyella jacket blouse with chinese collar and leather buttons.

did you know that...
...Vyella fabric was a twill weave blend of 55% merino's wool and 45% cotton in the early 20th century? Later they modified the fabric mix in 80% cotton and 20% wool. In the early years, the fabric’s unique selling point was its combination of lightness and fashion, whilst providing warmth and durability.

1939 beautiful felt hats, left a cocoa-brown forward jutting beret from Schiaparelli


Source newspaper image: AWW through trove

50+ fashion in Agatha Christie's Poirot (part 5)

I feel the last months I was moving back-and forth between the 30's and the 40's. While my favorite fashion era is the 40's because of the shape of the garments (it flatters me the most, I guess) I'm equally in love with the 30's with the little details, embellishments and often statuesque look. I guess, we all do love the 30's fashion from Agatha Christie's Poirot series. Have you noticed that quite often, just as in the fashion magazines the younger women seem to wear the prettiest dresses? Let's focus on the 50+ group for a change!
In one of the season 13 episodes 'The dead man's folly' Poirot is invited by a long-time friend, the crime- writer Miss Ariadne Oliver to investigate a case. In this episode we see more 'matrons' as they were called in those years, wearing the prettiest outfits. The skirt-lengths suggest we are moving towards the end of the 30's, but are not in the war-years yet.

Miss Oliver is a writer and has a bohemian-eccentric clothing style. She loves to wear layers, mix bold colors and patterns. In the first scene she appears in a black and white, Eastern-inspired outfit. She wears a long dress with a caftan-like coat, a weird flower-purse and a black-and white hat with graphic lines:
  

Below a close-up of the black felt hat or toque with the pretty white leafs, the drop-earrings and the probably Egyptian inspired white and gold appliques of the coat:
  

Similar hats from 1936-37 (top right 1940):

While we think of felt hats, rather simple, traditional shapes come to mind. To show the diversity in use of this material, below two beautifully shaped felt hats from the end on the 30's:


Green and earth-colors dominate this bohemian outfit. Every item is patterned! The lady's favorite combination of a long dress and a long coat worn with green accessories: different green beaded necklaces, matching long earrings, a green purse and a dark green hat with tulip-pattern and a feather:
  

 

Below two outfits that appear in two short scenes, both in a combination of black and red:
   

A for Miss oliver's taste simple, voile dress with a square neckline and puff sleeves in grey and white with just a tad of pastel green and pink. Very flattering for her age! Worn with long drop-earrings and of course her favorite accessories, the bead necklaces:
   

Another eccentric outfit in red. Again, a combination of many patterns and textures. The eye-catcher is the large red textured collar. The dress and the coat have similar colors but different patterns. Still, because of the similar color scheme the whole outfit looks pretty. There is a flower embellishment on the patterned hat-ribbon and several colored bead necklaces complement the outfit:


   

There is a contrast between the outfits of the eccentric writer and the decent suits the next lady is wearing. Below a fitted blue suit, with a high-crowned hat in a matching color. The blouse has a softly tied shawl-collar. She wears a pearl necklace and a brooch:
   

In the next scene she appears in a fitted, beige-brown plaid suit with a pleated A-line skirt. The blouse has a small tie. The accessories are a brown brooch and a chocolate-brown felt hat with a pleated brim:
   

The third time she wears a brown, long sleeved summer dress with a textured peasant straw hat. The dress has ruches along the shoulders:
   

One of the younger ladies of this episode, here wearing palazzo pants with an embroidered blouse. A pretty felt hat in the same bordeaux color complements her outfit:
   

In another scene wearing a summer frock with the same hat. Also her heels match the same bordeaux color:
   

   

The another young lady appears wearing long, sleeveless summer dresses. All of her clothes are made out of flower patterned fabrics. Below two different dresses from different scenes, but worn with the same belt:
   



Similar cartwheel hat from 1934:


There is not much visible of the next dress, but the neckline is really pretty. And how about those lovely curls?
   

The next fitted, sleeveless dress has a white lace upper layer, a V-shaped yoke with a collar and more volume from the knees down. Worn with a colored flower brooch and a cartwheel hat with a band of flowers:


   

   

The lady above returns in several scenes. Here she wears a dress with a scarf-collar, in combination with a coat in a contrasting color, lined with the same fabric as her dress:
   

A similar design from 1937:


A simple, flat crown felt hat and a perfect wavy hairdo. Isn't she pretty?


A black, belted frock with grey and pink flower pattern. The pattern is cleverly placed in two panels on the sides, which has an elongating effect:
   

Below wearing dark colors:
   

A casual outfit for work in the garden: a pastel colored dress with a pistache-green cardigan and a camel brown felt hat. The hat has a flat crown with a soft, brown velours ribbon:

   

The middle-aged secretary wears simple blouse and skirt sets with different (probably detachable) lace collars:
   

Last but not least a little surprise!!!!!
Look closely....


...very, very closely...
   

...does this suit reminds you of something? Probably of Miss Lemon's pink suit?
While the suit looks quite different on a fuller figure and the color looks less bright I'm positive it is the same dress and suit combination!
Just look at the buttons: