Jumper styles and shapes from the 30's to the 60's

It is interesting to look at how jumper styles changed through the decades. Before starting to knit you really need to look at the pictures of the finished items and ask yourself the quetion: Will this look good on me? We all have different body shapes and let's be honest, not every garment accentuates the best parts of it. The models, even from 100 years ago seem to have the same, slender body shapes with tiny waists which makes every item look wonderful on them. Frustrating!

When it comes to making vintage inspired garments I think you need to know which era produced the most flattering patterns for your body type.
As you might know by now, I prefer the 40's. This is why:

• The accentuated shoulders are perfect to disguise the lack of shape in the waist. 
• The 30's could also be a good choice because of a wide variety of embellishments, for the same reason. 

I also know which parts to adjust:

• Those era's are well-known for the high necklines. I lower them a bit because of my round face. 
• Since I am high waisted I know it is more flattering to add extra width above the waistline to create a slightly blousy shape.
• Of course, I lengthen the tops too, because a very short jumper with a high waist is not a good combination...

The 60's are not my fashion era, simply because of the lack of shaping in the garments. I can imagine those garments would look fabulous on a thin person with small boobs, but with my swayback and broad shoulders they'd just look shapeless sacks on me. The 50's have a question mark in my book, because the hourglass shape which I simply don't have...

Which fashion era do you prefer and which one looks best on you?
Sloping shoulders or elevated ones, dolman sleeves or puff sleeves, fitted tops or relaxed ones?

Free vintage baby bootie & bonnet pattern from 1965

Okay, I'd take a short break, but then I remembered that I've already prepared this post a while ago, with items that could be made for the holiday season. They could make a great Christmas gift! It seems that free baby-knitting patterns remain popular on the internet. These small projects are quick to make, you can use your left-over wool and finish them just in a few evenings. I've already done a post on testing 3 free available baby bootee patterns from the internet here. Today I have another baby bootee and bonnet pattern from 1965, with a definite vintage air! Cute, isn't it?
 

These booties have shaped toes and heels. The original pattern uses the classic white/pink (pr white/light blue) combination. Unfortunately there is no contrast visible on the original, black-and-white picture below, it seems all white.

Actually the moss-stitch parts are knitted in the contrasting color (pattern instructions: pink) and the 'bobbles' are white. I think a bolder, modern color combination like bright blue and yellow or grey and yellow, grey and bright blue or pale green with pink could work just as great! Below details of the construction (made up a bootie) and a detailed explanation of how to knit the two-colored bobble-pattern! You find the original patterns at the end of this post.

stitches & patterns used


moss-stitch:
The edges and the sole of the booties are knit in Moss stitch (also referred as 'M-st.' in the instructions). Moss stitch is simply altering knit and purl stitches followed in the next row by purl above knit stitches and knit above the purl stitches:


two-colored bobble-pattern:
The main pattern is knitted in two colors. There are 'bobbles' in the main color (here white) and in between stripes in the contrasting color (here gray):


pattern chart:

One pattern unit is 6 rows tall and 3+1 sts wide.


bobble-pattern step-by-step:
1. the pattern starts with 4 rows in stocking stitch (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side)


2. start the next row in the contrasting color. The pattern is formed by 3 knit stitches followed by a 'drop-stitch':
   

3. drop the stitch until the colored stitch and pick that one up (you will have 4 strands of wool above that stitch)
   

4. put your needle under the 4 strands, pick up the wool and pull it through as if to knit (now you have the new loop on your right needle and the original stitch next to that)
   

5 now pass the original stitch over the loop you just made: pick up the original stitch with your left needle and lift it over the loop
   

Your finished stitch (left) the wrong side of the work (right):
   

material and sizing:

• The yarn specified in the instructions (see below bonnet pattern) is a fingering weight yarn, with no.10 needles (metric 3,25) and 7 sts per inch. My guess is, the finished items should definitely fit a 0-4 month old baby.
• I used for my sample a slightly heavier, sport/baby weight yarn with metric size 3 needles. My gauge: 6 sts per in. My finished size from heel to toe: 9 cm (3,5 in). According to baby boot charts this should fit a 3-6 months old baby.

bootie-pattern:
   

These booties are knitted top down. First step is to knit the straight, patterned part above the ankle. After making a row of holes for the tie you separate the stitches in 3 sections. You continue working on middle section for the instep. The turn is made by picking up stitches at the sides, just like when knitting a sock. You finish after decreasing in an angle for the toes. The bootees have a seam along the length of the sole up to the back. As always, I suggest using a flat seam finish to avoid bulky seams inside. (See link under tab 'knitting hints')


   



my pattern modifications:
- instead of 'make one' (m1) by picking up a strand from the previous row I used 'yarn over' to make the holes around the ankle for the tie. A yarn over makes larger holes which are easier in use imo:

Warning: I'd strongly recommend to use a crochet chain or other elastic material instead of a ribbon for safety reasons. Though they look pretty, ribbons are not elastic. When pulled too hard they can be potentially dangerous!

bonnet pattern:
To make up: join back seam from fastening off to first decrease. Sew on ribbon.

Courtesy & source of all newspaper images: AWW through Trove.

Treasures from the found sewing box!

A few weeks ago we've found an old sewing box on the street. In the meantime I had the chance to take pictures of the contents. I listed a couple of interesting items below:

Stocking darning kit
The little piece of cardboard contains two colors of really thin, but strong, silky thread: one pinkish 'flesh' color and one more brownish shade. This might be the oldest thing in the sewing box, since nylon stockings were almost exclusively worn from the 1950's on. Thicker nylon stockings of the early days could be repaired by picking up the stitches with a thin crochet hook, but nylon was just too weak to be mend over and over again.




CARP thread on wooden spools
We don't use wooden spools anymore, it's all plastic now. 'Carp' was the name of a dutch textile industrialist in the south of the Netherlands between 1900 and 1969. In 1938 the fabrics were bought by the Scottisch J&P coats from Glasgow. They lost the business in the 1960's when cheap work of the low fair countries came up. The wooden spoons are made carefully, the edges are smoothly rounded.




Nickel silver purse frame with handle
It is marked as 'alpacca' - a metal alloy of copper with nickel and zink. It has a silvery metallic color although it doesn't contains silver. Was popular to use to make coins, parts of musical instruments. Nickel silver was first known and used in China. In 1823 a German competition was held to perfect the production process: the goal was to develop an alloy that possessed the closest visual similarity to silver. The brothers Henniger in Berlin and Ernst August Geitner in Schneeberg independently achieved this goal. The manufacturer Berndorf named the trademark brand 'Alpacca', which became widely known in northern Europe for nickel silver.






Old metal cigar boxes
A collection of mending wool for socks was kept in cigar boxes. The metallic boxes are from the dutch make 'Willem II' founded in 1916. In 1977 the fabric was taken over by the Consolidated Cigar Company and by the end of the 1980's the Swedish Match.

This one was produced between 1930-1970:


This one was produced between 1920-1970:


As an extra, a family piece from my own great-grandmother:
Wooden sock darning tool
This wasn't part of the sewing box, but I've got it from my grandma. It was her mother's, like my old Singer sewing machine. A well-used little thing with a lot of fine scratches from frequent use. You often see egg-shaped and sometimes mushroom-shaped darning tools which were used for mending wool socks and stockings. Of course, nowadays we throw away our used socks and buy new ones, but it wasn't the case in the first half of the 20th century when socks were handmade of wool and one owned a limited amount of pairs. They even sold mending wool for socks in the same colors for this purpose (There were a couple of those in my found sewing box too...pic below)

New retro envelop patterns from Burda

   

Back in october I wrote about the Burda retro patterns. The new retro patterns from the 2013 spring collection are all in 60's style.
The 60's are not my favorite fashion period. With a broad upper back and a swayback the shapeless dresses with no darts gain some kind of pregnancy charm which I'd rather like to avoid. I still love the two patterns above, especially with the addition of a jacket and a cape which are shaped with shoulder darts, something I miss on the modern patterns. Since these patterns aren't expensive they are on my list to buy. (It's a pity the dress pattern with the jacket starts at size 12)

Retro inspired printed Burda patterns

I wonder if anyone knows and tried these printed Burda patterns?
They look really pretty, with old fashioned artwork and the prices are (at least, here in Europe) half of the big 4 pattern prices. Overall, a nice selection of mostly 50's and 60's garments.
Strange enough I can't find any review online. My biggest problem with Burda patterns is that the garments like jackets are very loosely fitted or have a lot of ease. I always make size smaller than my measurements indicate. The back of the envelopes state 'fitted' for the 50's patterns and 'semi-fitted'  for the 60's patterns. Promising! The Vintage Vogue patterns look for me the best, I love that there is some variation in the designs they choose to re-issue. The Retro Buttericks are mostly dresses and Simplicity has only a few Retro patterns.

I've bought the two patterns above. The packaging is not much, the patterns and instructions are sealed in cheap plastic. That means once you open it you have to store your pattern in an envelope because you can't put them back without tearing the plastic apart...
Surprise, surprise, there are no seam-allowances included. To tackle this problem I've got a 'parallel' tracing wheel with chalk which you can adjust to add seam allowances while tracing:



Basically you trace along the pattern lines with the wheel (at the right) while mark your fabric with the chalk (left) along the line with a seam-allowance included. No need to measure and mark seam-allowances after tracing anymore! Really a time-saver. Why didn't I know that?...
But back to the patterns:
- The instruction booklet consist more text than diagrams than I'm used to with the big 4.
- I like the fact that the pattern pieces are printed in a different color, this makes easier to trace the outer lines.
- But nothing is perfect, so the printing is a darker shade of the same color which makes it impossible to write the instructions over while tracing.



While looking at the pattern pieces I wondered if there are any 'vintage'  features like shoulder darts and darts around the elbow on the sleeves... As far as I can see there aren't any. Both of the jackets have seams through the shoulders, so that's not clear and there aren't any visible darts on the two-piece sleeves.
No time yet to start on one of these patterns, I think I'm going to try the knit dress from the september Burda first. I need a quick and easy project right now, since we are still busy finishing stuff for our new home.