Making the Lonsdale dress

Started to make the dress.
I decided to finish the seams in a neat way. (By the way, the great thing about this dress is that it has a minimum of seam finishing!) The unfinished edges of the bodice are all on the inside. I don't have a serger. Learned to sew from my grandma and she used to do the edges with zigzag stitch. I wanted to try something that looks a bit better, a turned and stitched finishing (just pressed the raw edges under and stitched)



The seams of the bodice and skirt are covered with the inside waistband:






Since I wanted to use an invisible zipper I've left the inside bodice open at the edges. I've installed the zipper first and I can cover it with the inside bodice part. Read here how I did it!





My invisible zipper foot. I choose often for an invisible zipper because it looks neat and of course, it is invisible!





   

Lonsdale dress muslin part 2

Pattern adjustment, I took size 6 on the bottom of the front bodice and size 8 on the upper part. Did the same for the back.


Since my size 6 muslin was ready I just widened the upper part of the side seams (= the same adjustments I did on the pattern)


The fit is even better, it is wide enough in the bustline and fitted at the waist:






And this is my fabric, a simple lightweight cotton which I've already prewashed:

The Lonsdale dress muslin

Ever since it came out I was in love with this pattern. It's a pity the Dutch summer sucks this year (all we have is a few ' tropical' days, Death Valley style or rainy days all the time...)
Well, finally I've ordered my first Sewaholic pattern!
What I like about it is the fitted top and the beautiful flared skirt with pockets!
I think this might be a universally flattering style for almost every bodytype. Love the simplicity of it, no darts or really curvy seams to sew.

First I looked at the sizing. Yes, I took the measurements this time! I decided to go with size 8 first although the finished measurements seemed too roomy at the first glance.

So this was size 8 at the stage when I already pinched out 2 cm in the front. Still too big around the under-the-bust area, although it might be okay around the bust ( mostly because of my wide back)



Then I realized that it would be better to try a size smaller instead of taking out centimeters here and there.
Here are the pics of size 6:

I need to shorten the sides by 0.5 cm (I don't have a tiny waist from the front, although it looks kinda small from the side). I think I leave it a size 8 at the top:


After checking back to the Sewaholic website I realized that I needed to pull up the top a bit higher (obviously not yet done in these pictures). This is the point when the adjustable strapes come in...really handy!
First I was thinking of sewing the strapes down, or maybe using buttons to be able to shorten it, but with this muslin I learned to appreciate that the strapes are adjustable and it would be nearly impossible to tie it the same way every single time. And I love the bow!


I'm not going to make another muslin, the few pattern adjustments will be:
- shortening the sides by 0.5 cm
- cutting a size 6 bodice, at the widest part fading into a size 8

Muslinology...

A recent post on Gertie's blog here made me re-think the muslin-problem. In the past I produced a huge amount of UFO's due to not making a muslin of the pattern before sewing. Basically, it was all about making up something and not even fitting during the process. I was like 15-16 years old and just didn't mind I guess...
Now I decided to make a muslin for every single pattern I plan to sew.
In the first place it will be the first time for me to work with US patterns, so I didn't even know which size to choose. I thought to do it the easy way - I wear EU size small or 36, so size 10 patterns will be fine. Well, I was wrong. It turned out to be size 12 (for Vogue patterns even a size 14 at the waist...)

The first was SImplicity 2591
Though I don't like the ruffles around the waist (more specifically right above the belly part) I love the simplicity (how convenient...) of the whole look. And of course, the pockets. Although I might try to make a combination with an other, half circle skirt pattern.

Started with size 10:
- really tight, though great fit with no ease at all
- the shoulders stood up on the inside, I have to make that line more flat
- didn't like the wide boatneck, so I should take it in at the widest part with 1 cm on each side
size 12:
- with the adjustments around the neckline just perfect!

The second muslin I made was for my all time fav. - Vogue 9668 (view A)
size 10:
- was really skintight, but the width of the shoulders and the length from the shoulder to under the bust line was just perfect
made a size 12:
- shoulders too wide and indeed, the length to the under the bust line just too long
- it was roomy enough everywhere but at the waistline

Pattern adjustments:
- traced size 12, but kept the height of the size 10 and rounded the armholes towards the size 12 line at the armholes
- I widened the pattern to size 14 fro the bustdarts down (really fine when yours go till size 10...)

I realized that I didn't make any pics of the process, but I'm going to do that in the future.
The question is, when am I doing to sew a garment instead of only producing muslins?...
Next up is the Lonsdale dress - another muslin and hopefully a dress too...