Friday, November 29, 2013

'invisible' hemming trick (with sewing machine)



Have you ever used this stitch? Number 14 (or 13) on my sewing machine is a stitch which you could use for 'invisible' hemming. (Number 14 gives a zigzag finish of the raw edge as well) I used this stitch to hem my temporary curtains in our new house, but you could use it for hemming skirts or jackets as well. On a patterned, woven fabric you wouldn't even notice the stitches!
This is what it looks like from the wrong side:
   

...but what is more interesting, this is how it looks like from the right side. All you can see is tiny 'dots' of stitches:


I used the Glansnava curtain lining from IKEA to make temporary curtains for two bedrooms. It is 100% polyester and certainly not pretty looking, but blocks the light out sufficiently. When I find the right curtain fabric (currently thinking of deep green velours...) I simply use these as lining for the back side.
To measure the length I actually hanged these in front of the windows (the curtain bands are already attached) and pinned up the right amount of fabric. For now, I only trimmed the fabric-made hem and then folded the raw edge underneath:
   

Now you need to fold the fabric before sewing. The dark color is the wrong side. The hem is on the right side of the picture, is folded back and pinned in place:


Now you need to turn the hem underneath, you see the points of the pins peeking out on the right. For my machine the middle line of the sewing foot is where the two sides meet. The small zigzag is stitched on the right side and the long zigzag is placed on the left:
   

Here is a close-up of the larger zigzag's grip on the fabric:


I've made a diagram which is probably easier to understand how it goes:


In the meantime we've planted 5 large espalier trees in the backyard along the fence. They are going to prevent the neighbors from looking into our garden:

Thursday, November 28, 2013

50+ fashion in Agatha Christie's Poirot (part 5)



I feel the last months I was moving back-and forth between the 30's and the 40's. While my favorite fashion era is the 40's because of the shape of the garments (it flatters me the most, I guess) I'm equally in love with the 30's with the little details, embellishments and often statuesque look. I guess, we all do love the 30's fashion from Agatha Christie's Poirot series. Have you noticed that quite often, just as in the fashion magazines the younger women seem to wear the prettiest dresses? Let's focus on the 50+ group for a change!
In one of the season 13 episodes 'The dead man's folly' Poirot is invited by a long-time friend, the crime- writer Miss Ariadne Oliver to investigate a case. In this episode we see more 'matrons' as they were called in those years, wearing the prettiest outfits. The skirt-lengths suggest we are moving towards the end of the 30's, but are not in the war-years yet.

Miss Oliver is a writer and has a bohemian-eccentric clothing style. She loves to wear layers, mix bold colors and patterns. In the first scene she appears in a black and white, Eastern-inspired outfit. She wears a long dress with a caftan-like coat, a weird flower-purse and a black-and white hat with graphic lines:
  

Below a close-up of the black felt hat or toque with the pretty white leafs, the drop-earrings and the probably Egyptian inspired white and gold appliques of the coat:
  

Similar hats from 1936-37 (top right 1940):

While we think of felt hats, rather simple, traditional shapes come to mind. To show the diversity in use of this material, below two beautifully shaped felt hats from the end on the 30's:


Green and earth-colors dominate this bohemian outfit. Every item is patterned! The lady's favorite combination of a long dress and a long coat worn with green accessories: different green beaded necklaces, matching long earrings, a green purse and a dark green hat with tulip-pattern and a feather:
  

 

Below two outfits that appear in two short scenes, both in a combination of black and red:
   

A for Miss oliver's taste simple, voile dress with a square neckline and puff sleeves in grey and white with just a tad of pastel green and pink. Very flattering for her age! Worn with long drop-earrings and of course her favorite accessories, the bead necklaces:
   

Another eccentric outfit in red. Again, a combination of many patterns and textures. The eye-catcher is the large red textured collar. The dress and the coat have similar colors but different patterns. Still, because of the similar color scheme the whole outfit looks pretty. There is a flower embellishment on the patterned hat-ribbon and several colored bead necklaces complement the outfit:


   

There is a contrast between the outfits of the eccentric writer and the decent suits the next lady is wearing. Below a fitted blue suit, with a high-crowned hat in a matching color. The blouse has a softly tied shawl-collar. She wears a pearl necklace and a brooch:
   

In the next scene she appears in a fitted, beige-brown plaid suit with a pleated A-line skirt. The blouse has a small tie. The accessories are a brown brooch and a chocolate-brown felt hat with a pleated brim:
   

The third time she wears a brown, long sleeved summer dress with a textured peasant straw hat. The dress has ruches along the shoulders:
   

One of the younger ladies of this episode, here wearing palazzo pants with an embroidered blouse. A pretty felt hat in the same bordeaux color complements her outfit:
   

In another scene wearing a summer frock with the same hat. Also her heels match the same bordeaux color:
   

   

The another young lady appears wearing long, sleeveless summer dresses. All of her clothes are made out of flower patterned fabrics. Below two different dresses from different scenes, but worn with the same belt:
   



Similar cartwheel hat from 1934:


There is not much visible of the next dress, but the neckline is really pretty. And how about those lovely curls?
   

The next fitted, sleeveless dress has a white lace upper layer, a V-shaped yoke with a collar and more volume from the knees down. Worn with a colored flower brooch and a cartwheel hat with a band of flowers:


   

   

The lady above returns in several scenes. Here she wears a dress with a scarf-collar, in combination with a coat in a contrasting color, lined with the same fabric as her dress:
   

A similar design from 1937:


A simple, flat crown felt hat and a perfect wavy hairdo. Isn't she pretty?


A black, belted frock with grey and pink flower pattern. The pattern is cleverly placed in two panels on the sides, which has an elongating effect:
   

Below wearing dark colors:
   

A casual outfit for work in the garden: a pastel colored dress with a pistache-green cardigan and a camel brown felt hat. The hat has a flat crown with a soft, brown velours ribbon:

   

The middle-aged secretary wears simple blouse and skirt sets with different (probably detachable) lace collars:
   

Last but not least a little surprise!!!!!
Look closely....


...very, very closely...
   

...does this suit reminds you of something? Probably of Miss Lemon's pink suit?
While the suit looks quite different on a fuller figure and the color looks less bright I'm positive it is the same dress and suit combination!
Just look at the buttons: