Lovely dress idea

Anthropology Ihrin Shirtdress

I've always wanted to have a shirtdress, I'm thinking of making something like this based on a pattern I've already got, Simplicity 2403 just with a different skirt, for example Burdastyle 06/2011 117.



I think you can be quite creative with a few basic patterns. If you know how to alter these there is no need for buying tons of patterns unless they are really special. For basic and advanced alterations the best source out there is Helen Joseph armstrong's book: Patternmaking for fashion design

Can I turn this fabric into a maxi-Lonsdale?

I've got about 5 yards of this fabric. I really liked it first, then I thought it looked like a gingham tablecloth... Still, the fabric has a great drape, the motifs are waved into not printed. After all, I think it would look great as a maxi sundress. This is going to be the fabric for my maxi-Lonsdale dress!
A little challenge will be matching the pattern and it would be too thick for a double layered bodice, but I've already got an idea how to fix that...


Starting tomorrow, check back soon!

'Butterfly garden' Lonsdale dress finished!

Looking at Sew Weekly all the dresses have names, so I decided to call this one the Butterfly garden dress!



There are some lovely details on this dress:

Making the Lonsdale dress

Started to make the dress.
I decided to finish the seams in a neat way. (By the way, the great thing about this dress is that it has a minimum of seam finishing!) The unfinished edges of the bodice are all on the inside. I don't have a serger. Learned to sew from my grandma and she used to do the edges with zigzag stitch. I wanted to try something that looks a bit better, a turned and stitched finishing (just pressed the raw edges under and stitched)



The seams of the bodice and skirt are covered with the inside waistband:






Since I wanted to use an invisible zipper I've left the inside bodice open at the edges. I've installed the zipper first and I can cover it with the inside bodice part. Read here how I did it!





My invisible zipper foot. I choose often for an invisible zipper because it looks neat and of course, it is invisible!





   

Lonsdale dress muslin part 2

Pattern adjustment, I took size 6 on the bottom of the front bodice and size 8 on the upper part. Did the same for the back.


Since my size 6 muslin was ready I just widened the upper part of the side seams (= the same adjustments I did on the pattern)


The fit is even better, it is wide enough in the bustline and fitted at the waist:






And this is my fabric, a simple lightweight cotton which I've already prewashed:

The Lonsdale dress muslin

Ever since it came out I was in love with this pattern. It's a pity the Dutch summer sucks this year (all we have is a few ' tropical' days, Death Valley style or rainy days all the time...)
Well, finally I've ordered my first Sewaholic pattern!
What I like about it is the fitted top and the beautiful flared skirt with pockets!
I think this might be a universally flattering style for almost every bodytype. Love the simplicity of it, no darts or really curvy seams to sew.

First I looked at the sizing. Yes, I took the measurements this time! I decided to go with size 8 first although the finished measurements seemed too roomy at the first glance.

So this was size 8 at the stage when I already pinched out 2 cm in the front. Still too big around the under-the-bust area, although it might be okay around the bust ( mostly because of my wide back)



Then I realized that it would be better to try a size smaller instead of taking out centimeters here and there.
Here are the pics of size 6:

I need to shorten the sides by 0.5 cm (I don't have a tiny waist from the front, although it looks kinda small from the side). I think I leave it a size 8 at the top:


After checking back to the Sewaholic website I realized that I needed to pull up the top a bit higher (obviously not yet done in these pictures). This is the point when the adjustable strapes come in...really handy!
First I was thinking of sewing the strapes down, or maybe using buttons to be able to shorten it, but with this muslin I learned to appreciate that the strapes are adjustable and it would be nearly impossible to tie it the same way every single time. And I love the bow!


I'm not going to make another muslin, the few pattern adjustments will be:
- shortening the sides by 0.5 cm
- cutting a size 6 bodice, at the widest part fading into a size 8

Muslinology...

A recent post on Gertie's blog here made me re-think the muslin-problem. In the past I produced a huge amount of UFO's due to not making a muslin of the pattern before sewing. Basically, it was all about making up something and not even fitting during the process. I was like 15-16 years old and just didn't mind I guess...
Now I decided to make a muslin for every single pattern I plan to sew.
In the first place it will be the first time for me to work with US patterns, so I didn't even know which size to choose. I thought to do it the easy way - I wear EU size small or 36, so size 10 patterns will be fine. Well, I was wrong. It turned out to be size 12 (for Vogue patterns even a size 14 at the waist...)

The first was SImplicity 2591
Though I don't like the ruffles around the waist (more specifically right above the belly part) I love the simplicity (how convenient...) of the whole look. And of course, the pockets. Although I might try to make a combination with an other, half circle skirt pattern.

Started with size 10:
- really tight, though great fit with no ease at all
- the shoulders stood up on the inside, I have to make that line more flat
- didn't like the wide boatneck, so I should take it in at the widest part with 1 cm on each side
size 12:
- with the adjustments around the neckline just perfect!

The second muslin I made was for my all time fav. - Vogue 9668 (view A)
size 10:
- was really skintight, but the width of the shoulders and the length from the shoulder to under the bust line was just perfect
made a size 12:
- shoulders too wide and indeed, the length to the under the bust line just too long
- it was roomy enough everywhere but at the waistline

Pattern adjustments:
- traced size 12, but kept the height of the size 10 and rounded the armholes towards the size 12 line at the armholes
- I widened the pattern to size 14 fro the bustdarts down (really fine when yours go till size 10...)

I realized that I didn't make any pics of the process, but I'm going to do that in the future.
The question is, when am I doing to sew a garment instead of only producing muslins?...
Next up is the Lonsdale dress - another muslin and hopefully a dress too...