Thursday, October 17, 2013

1942 Lacy gloves on two needles - 1/3



It is autumn here in Europe. It is getting dark earlier and after quite a few warm and sunny days the past week has been cold and rainy. It is time to pull out our gloves and hats! (And knit more pretty jumpers of course!) After a long project it is always nice to do a quick one. In the wartime pattern series I've already shared a wartime glove pattern which was knitted on two needles and could make perfect gloves for casual wear, when going for a walk or sitting on the bike. No fuss with 4 needles, a great project for beginners.

This time I have another 2-needle glove pattern to share! While the 'servicewomen gloves' were easy to make this one is rather an intermediate version. Still just 2 needles which makes it a great starter pattern when you are not comfortable with using 4 needles yet. The lace pattern is not as difficult as it seems, if you are carefully counting your stitches and keep track on your row count. In this post a short introduction, a few notes on sizing and a lot of phase pictures to show the details of the construction.



This pattern appeared in a 1942 september issue of the Australian Women's Weekly. Interestingly, due to a printing error, at first only half of the pattern was published, they 'forgot' to include the instructions for the fingers... The corrected version of the pattern appeared about a month later. (Note: I've found a minor printing error in the second version too) Again, the introduction text is intriguing:
"Lacy gloves knitted on two needles. The attractive panel introduced into the gloves lifts them out of the ordinary class. Anyone who can knit a pair of socks can make these with ease. Spare one coupon for wool and make pair of these well-fitting gloves for yourself, and then another pair for a friend. Welcome gift."


What a great idea to knit these gloves as a gift! You can use leftover yarn and knit them in just a few days. As you can see in my pictures and in the original as well, the lace part comes up higher above the wrist than we are used to. The ribbing of our contemporary gloves, usually starts right above the wrists. I think this version is much more elegant, giving the hands an elongated look. Also, when wearing them with a coat there is no ribbing peeping out under your sleeves, you only see the pretty lace pattern. The original bird's perspective picture is just lovely, don't you think?


sizing
The original pattern is for size 6 which is quite small.
The gauge is 10 sts per inch (=40 inches per 10 cm) knitted on size 13 needles (=metric 2.25) To achieve this gauge you should use very fine fingering weight, almost lace weight yarn.
For average size hands, like 7 you need to enlarge the gloves a bit. As always, the AWW advises using a larger needle with the same yarn. I would advise to use slightly thicker yarn instead of upsizing your needles, as loosely knitted garments tend to stretch out very quickly. You don't want to make shapeless gloves, right?
I made mine with a fingering weight yarn, with a gauge of 7 sts to an inch (28 sts to 10 cm) This produce gloves which fit medium size, 7-7.5 hands. I've kept  the same stitch count as the original and only needed to adjust the row count (=length) of the fingers to make them fit perfectly.

phase pictures
When reading the instructions it is really hard to imagine how your work should look like. It is a whole lot of information about picking up extra stitches, making a gusset, then omitting the gusset, in the meantime continuing the lace pattern correctly... I think visual information is always easier to understand. In contrary to the servicewomen gloves which are knitted lengthwise, these gloves are knitted in the 'traditional' way from the bottom up, but flat and not in the round. Let's take a look at the step-by-step phase pictures!

We start to knit at the wrist with a k1, p1 ribbing. Above the ribbing you can divide the pattern into 3 main parts: on the left side you see the lace pattern which forms the back of the glove, on the right the palm of the glove knitted in stocking stitch and in the middle after a few rows we start with shaping a reversed triangle which forms the gusset for the thumb:

did you know...
that a gusset is a triangular or rhomboid piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add some width and reduce stress from tight-fitting clothing. Think of the underarm area of the tight fitting sleeves of the 50's, or the crotch of contemporary tights and pantyhoses.
Below is the finished thumb gusset. Instead of knitting two stitches in one as instructed by the pattern, I used the 'make' a stitch method as I find the results much neater. I discussed this method here. To omit counting the gusset stitches (as suggested by the patten) I used two stitch markers which I placed next to the right and left stitch and did my increases next to those stitch markers. This made making the gusset really easy!


As you can see I also placed a stitchmarker next to the 24 stitches of the lace pattern, that way I didn't have to count the stitches on the right all the time:
   

After finishing the thumb gusset you need to cast on new stitches to make the back of the thumb. I used the same method to cast on stitches as described in my servicewomen gloves pattern here. The thumb and the first finger were pretty straight, except a minor adjustment in the length of the fingers. I made mine shorter, since the instructions of the original pattern should fit the fingers of E.T. in my opinion... Below right is the right length before starting the shaping of the fingertop:
   

All of the fingertops are made the same way, by decreasing the stitches over 3 rows. You pull the yarn through the last stitches and knot by pulling the yarn through the loop (below right)
   

After finishing the thumb you need to knit the lace pattern and the back further. To do this you need to pick on stitches after the lace part of the row, at the bottom of the thumb:
   

The two pictures below are made of the right hand glove, showing the same part above the thumb (just in case you wonder why the lace pattern is on the right instead of the left side). The front and back are connected now.
   

Be sure to fit a few times to measure the right length. I used a simple row-counter again to keep trace of the lace pattern:


The first finger is knitted in a similar way as the servicewomen gloves. The outer side is already attached, you only need to cast on a few stitches for the inner side:
   

The instructions of the second finger gave me some headache and at first sight I just couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work! I guess this is the 'curse' of using original vintage patterns... At the end of the day I decided that for me it was impossible to do it the way the pattern instructs, I had to purl the first row and knit the second instead of knit forst and purl the second... Once I tried this it went like a breeze! The fingers can be made longer or shorter if you wish. The length of the hand above the thumbs can be adjusted as well.
   

For the last 3 fingers you need to pick up stitches at the bottom of the cast-on stitches of the previous finger. That way you connect the two fingers while knitting. I found easer to do this with a crochet needle:
   

Here it is, a finished glove before stitching:


In the next post: stitching up the gloves and the lace pattern.

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Sneak peek!


Get your knitting needles ready for the first post of a new knitting project on thursday!
Can you guess what it is?

Monday, October 14, 2013

WW2 Moviestars made their own clothes - 1943 article




"This casually tailored blue suedette suit is perfect for all occasions says Theresa Wright who wears this outfit in her latest Universal movie 'Shadow of a doubt' and had it copied in beige for her personal wardobe. In the top-picture Theresa is seen re-making last years plead coat into a perky little pinafore frock, which she plans to team with crisp white blouses to wear for afternoon at home."
Can you imagine the moviestars of our days sitting behind their sewing machines and making their own outfits? Me neither...
Even when they kept looking glamorous during the WW2 years, not everything was as easy as it seemed. While MGM and Universal studios had a huge collection of costumes on hand they had to deal with the clothing restrictions as well. Scroll down to read the article!




Source article: AWW through Trove

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Phillipa jumper: 12. the pattern & 10 things I learned






1. choose your first pattern well
Simply said, for the first time make sure you choose something without intricate lacing, cables or fair isle patterns. The most important thing is to focus on the (approximately) right size and right construction of your garment. When you got that right, you can play around with more difficult details. The patterned part of the 'Phillippa' is simple enough to knit, but still looks pretty. You could also choose a jumper with the bodice knitted in stocking stitch in combination with another simple yoke pattern.

2. read the pattern instructions
Read the pattern instructions at least twice and make notes. You really need to have an idea of how the garment is constructed. Take notes and make sure you don't miss anything, especially when your gauge is different or you need to resize a pattern. Pay attention to what the instructions exactly instruct you to do! For example: K2TOG each end of row or K2TOG at beginning of every row or K2TOG every alternate row makes a huge difference!
(In the first round I missed a second moment of increase in the pattern which made my original stitch-count useless.... You also should know at which point you need to pay attention to shaping the armholes or neckline. If you want to adjust either one you should know where to start to decrease. Sometimes knitting goes so well that you might forget to stop in time...)

3. make a visual chart 
I prefer visual information to written when it comes to knitting patterns, so for me it is much easier to use a stitch-count chart instead of counting the stitches all the time. A chart makes it also easier to spot mistakes and printing errors in the original pattern description!
Note: a chart represents the right side of the pattern, so you should 'read' every other row backwards when not knitting on circular needles.

4. make a good swatch and wet block it!
This to prevent putting a lot of time and effort in making a garment which will be unwearable after the first wash. To make it easier, you can start out with a sock-wool for the first time. These wools are generally superwash-treated to keep their shape and not to shrink or stretch after (machine) washing.

5. check your tension
It is important to keep your tension correct. After the few inches of the patterned part with K and P stitches my knitting became too loose. I had to rip it out and restart the patterned part on smaller needles. The reason was that when knitting in round I only used K stitches which made my work go fast but my tension became tighter too.
Note: The tension or gauge swatch is usually for stocking stitch unless stated otherwise, for example if the garment is only knitted in pattern.

6. don't overcalculate
While it is important to have the sizing as good as possible don't think calculating everything automatically results in the perfect fit. If you are not satisfied with your garment, the neckline or other details it is better to rip it out and start over.

7. use stitchmarkers and count often
First when casting on the stitches and then to mark the sides or middle of the piece you are knitting. Re-count your stitches every now and then. The easiest way to do this is to place a stitchmarker every 10th or 20th stitch. If your count is correct you can remove them when knitting the next round.

8. write everything down
Make notes of your stitch counts, the amount of rows and other changes you make as you knit. If you have a good blueprint-pattern it will be so much easier to reproduce other patterns in your size too! Why would you do a different shaping of a standard armhole when one method works for you and you already figured it out?

9. be inventive
Unless you want to knit your garment with completely period-accurate details, think of what could make your work easier. For example, omitting the side seams by knitting on circular needles up to the armholes. This makes knitting faster too, because you only have knit stitches. You can change certain details too: feel free to use buttons instead of a zipper and don't be afraid to make the sleeves fuller or less full than the original...

10. don't expect the first jumper to be perfect
This is probaby the most important thing. When working on your first vintage pattern it is easy to get carried away by the pretty vintage pictures. I guess, the first one just can't be perfect, since you need to experiment with the ease and the fit, plus vintage patterns are usually shorter than we are used to. I think you should just enjoy knitting the garment and more important, learn and use the good things in your next project!



the pattern:
Notes:
- When working with a gauge of 7 sts to an inch you will have a size S/M) garment.
- I started with about 3.5 in of ribbing at the waist (= 9 cm)
- I have lowered the neckline a bit by adding a few extra rows to the shoulders (the straight part following the neckline decrease)
- I casted on 84 sts for the sleeves instead of 80.
- Feel free to add length! The 40's style jumpers are usually rather short.

pattern part 1:


pattern part 2:


pattern part 3:

The original pattern appeared in the Australian Women's Weekly - through Trove

Previous posts in the Phillipa jumper series:
1. introduction
2. yarn an gauge
3. fit an ease
4. pattern charts an diagrams
5. knitting in round &stitch markers
6. methods to increase
7. my seamless pocket lining
8. my version: back neck opening
9. oh, those 40's sleeves
10. crochet finishing on neckline and pocket
11. the big reveal

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Phillipa jumper: 11. the big reveal!



   



After all those weeks you might be wondering how my finished jumper look like. You also might wonder why I choose to make 10 posts instead of just a few. Well, I like to do a lot of research for my projects and I like to experiment with different methods to achieve perfect results. If you look back you can find a lot of information on how to knit a vintage jumper for yourself. Well, here it is! And it definitely looks good for a first try!
(I'm wearing here a linen skirt, hence all those wrinkles...)

  



Front and back view:




The button tab:


So what am I going to do differently next time?
to change next time
  • yarn (go for nice, smooth wool)
  • less ease (not afraid of it anymore!) It is now a bit roomy although it has just an inch positive ease  Now I added width but with my bust size it wasn't necessary at all. I guess from cup A to C there is no need for that.
  • want to try other types of shoulder solutions
  • lower the armhole a bit
  • make the bodice a tad longer (though this is how it is supposed to be, truly 40's style!)
  • although it is period and pattern accurate, I prefer a bit less wide shoulders
not to change next time
  • tension/gauge (I think 7 sts/1 inch =28 sts/10 cm is just perfect for vintage jumpers! I already have two yarn options which I knit with the same tension and are easily available, plus not too expensive: drops alpaca and drops baby merino.
  • the neckline is flattering, just perfect for this type of jumpers, not too low and not too high
  • like the wide ribbing at the waist 
  • love the increase after the ribbing for a bit blousy look, it makes my waist look smaller!
  • like the button closure of the back neck opening with the crochet loops


 

The most important thing is that I learned a lot while knitting this jumper. I know now how to correct things, I'm not afraid of adding less ease either. I have a good idea how many stitches are just right with this gauge so I can adjust the sizing of my next jumper even better. That one will be just perfect!

Next time we are continuing the wartime pattern series. The next pattern will be a quick, but oh-so-pretty little project!

Previous posts in the Phillipa jumper series:
1. introduction
2. yarn an gauge
3. fit an ease
4. pattern charts an diagrams
5. knitting in round &stitch markers
6. methods to increase
7. my seamless pocket lining
8. my version: back neck opening
9. oh, those 40's sleeves
10. crochet finishing on neckline and pocket

Thursday, October 3, 2013

My drops order has arrived!



A huge box with gorgeous 'Baby Merino' yarn arrived for another projects I planned for this year.
I choose the shades blue (30), red (16), off white (02), electric blue (33) and heather (34). I'm especially happy with the red color, it has a hint of blue-ish hue which makes it very wearable. Although I planned it to be part of a striped garment I love this color so much that I might order more of it (while on sale) to knit a red jumper! Quite bright colors, but unfortunately, pastels don't suit my pale coloring. The downside: while they have quite a variation in colors I wish they had more green shades, like jade, deep dark green or moss green to choose from...


Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Phillipa jumper: 10. crochet finishing on neckline and pocket



Here is the last post about the construction of the Phillipa jumper. The very last step, after assembling the jumper is to finish the neckline and the pocket opening. As often in the 30's and 40's, the Phillipa pattern calls for a crocheted finish: 2 rows of d.c.* all around. Another often used finishing method is to pick up stitches around the neckline and knit in ribbing. Sometimes the ribbed edge is knitted separately and sewn to the neckline after finishing. Since the 40's necklines are unusual high it is important to lower the neckline a bit if you want to finish it with a ribbed band.

*Note: this is the US abbrevation which is the same as the UK single crochet! I discussed the differences here. Scroll down for a step-by-step instruction!

With a crochet finish you get a nice, regular chain finish at the edges. It also helps to correct the U-shaped curves of neckline.


double crochet step-by-step
At the upper edge where you cast off you see the little chains, use one crochet stitch per one knitted stitch. At the sides you sometimes you need to put two in one hole, just check your tension every now and then. If your work curves upwards you are crocheting too tight, if it starts to golf you crochet too lose or use too many stitches. Practice, practice, practice! I used a metric size 2 crochethook.

1. insert the crochet needle into a stitch (under the V of a chain)
-

2. yarn over:

3. pull yarn through stitch, now you have two loops on your needle: 

4. yarn over again:

5. pull yarn through both loops: 

Ready! This is how my neckline looks like after the first row of double crochet:


Because the decrease of the knitted neckline is not a perfect curve I follow the pattern instructions and use a second row of double crochet to smooth it out:
   



The flat chain button loops were made in the first row: in the first row of dc I made loops of 5 chains and then the second row on top of that. Below fitting the button:


The finished button loops:


This is how the pocket edge looks like:


Since this is a straight line I decided to use only one row of dc to not to interfere with the diagonal pattern Remember, you can always adjust things you don't like. The pattern instructions are just one way to do things, dare to adjust and do things differently if you don't like the results!


Next post: the big reveal but have not manage to take good pics yet...
Previous posts in the Phillipa jumper series:
1. introduction
2. yarn an gauge
3. fit an ease
4. pattern charts an diagrams
5. knitting in round &stitch markers
6. methods to increase
7. my seamless pocket lining
8. my version: back neck opening
9. oh, those 40's sleeves